The half scale 29/10/2013


I began to create the half scale toile using calico and it allowed me to figure out how my full scale toile would look like if I recreated it. It also allowed me to experiment with what could be done with the calico to make it drape, because the lighter it is the easier it is to work with for this technique. I used the half scale block as a guide and then I made adjustments to fit my design; I started to recreate a draping on the neck and shoulder areas as I had done previously. Then I started to question myself like what if the draping used excessive fabric to drape and exaggerate the neck line? What if I made the shoulders more boxed and masculine? Would the draping change direction if I added sleeves? Through this self-evaluation I wanted to start drawing some ideas of how I could answer or reject them. I also made the toile in a satin like material to see how it behaved on the half scale and I even added a hood on the design, I felt these were elements I wanted to keep when I make the full scale.


So what?

I learnt that sometimes a paper pattern doesn’t always show accurate depiction of what the garment will look like or behave. But it’s still useful to have a paper pattern before you do the toilet because for me it’s a good way of making sure that when it comes to sewing the end product it is exactly how I envisioned it. It’s a good way of taking a 2d drawing and making it a 3d object, which is something I had set myself to do previously. I appreciated that I could locate these problems early on so they could be easier to correct. I have used a small scale stand before so the experience of doing this was rather familiar to me. I think that using the calico rather than the scrap fabric worked well because it did exactly what I wanted it to do and it gave me a better understanding of my design than the first paper pattern I made on the full scale stand.

Now what?

The half scale was useful in helping me progress back to the full scale stand which is what I will make to be my next target. I want to be able to apply what I have learnt from the small scale stand to when I begin making my paper pattern and eventually begin my toile. I know I could have improved by using other jacket blocks to see if they looked and worked better. The one thing I would have done differently would have been to make the full paper pattern rather than half, to analyse how the overall design would look.

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